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I remember thinking, "Far out, I can't believe this," when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me.
I still get the feeling I got when I started, that's why I'm still doing it after all these years, I still get that full adrenalin rush before I compete.
I'm pretty superstitious, I want to do everything right, get my routine right, and I wait for waves. I kinda try to sense the ocean coming together for me.
I do feel a kinship for sure. I admire those guys who've won hat-tricks like Andy, and obviously Kelly who's won seven, that's amazing stuff. I think the average surfer thinks it's amazing. The guys who win our championships, they're so amazing.