I stay away from big chunks of carbs and try to keep it lean, even when Im competing.

When I enjoy my surfing, I get good results, and I've always had fun in South Africa.

My favorite meal to make is seared ahi, and my wife does the most amazing pear salad.

I stay away from big chunks of carbs and try to keep it lean, even when I'm competing.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Being out there in the ocean, God's creation, it's like a gift He has given us to enjoy.

As long as Im getting waves and having fun, the results tend to take care of themselves.

When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love and it's a part of me.

As long as I'm getting waves and having fun, the results tend to take care of themselves.

I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.

Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love, and it's a part of me.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

Ive been on the tour for 12 years, and the big dream has always been to get a world title.

If we can use technology to shorten the path between intention and action, that excites me.

I've been on the tour for 12 years, and the big dream has always been to get a world title.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

I do need to travel with a purpose, though. I can't go somewhere to just hang out with friends.

Losing an arm is kinda lame at one point, but at the same time, so much good has come out of it.

When you're playing with only 13 guys, and is on the power play 12 times, that'll wear you down.

For me, I like to keep it real simple; I just worry about myself, the waves, and my surroundings.

I don't know how long I'll be competing but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.

My set comes with a smaller fin in the back, i find this helps me release off the top a lot easier

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.

As soon as I get bored, I start missing the kids, so I dont let myself get bored. I just go surfing.

This was the most emotional title of my career. I was the youngest champion, and now I'm the oldest.

As soon as I get bored, I start missing the kids, so I don't let myself get bored. I just go surfing.

I'm actually not star-struck... I like to give people their own space and admire them from a distance.

Having so many close calls in my career, it was such an awesome feeling to get that first world title.

Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.

I don't mind cold water. I mean, it's fine. Wetsuits will serve you these days; it doesn't really matter.

Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it's amazing to be loved by so many different women.

It’s a waste of time to be bummed on something, considering the amount of time that we have in this world.

Kauai is kind of my place where I go to get centered. Its always my place to come back and feel normal again.

Kauai is kind of my place where I go to get centered. It's always my place to come back and feel normal again.

I like the responsive, quick feeling I get out of the Proton, and I am excited to have this board as my model.

Exercising underwater also creates tremendous benefits by challenging your body in ways you can't on dry land.

My strength came from my relationship with Christ and from the love and encouragement of my family and friends.

It definitely takes a fair bit of experience to know what's the right kind of wave and which is the wrong wave.

Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently its the most difficult thing in the world.

If I'm more prepared, the success will fall on me; if not, it will fall on someone else, and I'm okay with that.

We all strive to find something unique and special that we are passionate about that separates us from the rest.

Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.

As you get older your hair just starts getting a bit darker which makes me sad. So I probably need to surf more.

We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house. When we get there, we dream of something else.

Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

If I went to a regular job, if I was a secretary or something, I'd want to look good. I'd dress up for that part.

It's a long year, and there is going to be ups and downs, but you just have to take the positives and be patient.

I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

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